Ockenden Ranch Owners Association

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Pacific Central Management Corporation

Tom Ockenden and the History of Ockenden Ranch

By: Lance Johnson

The story of Tom Ockenden and the original Ockenden Ranch represent major elements of our area's history. Unfortunately, though both have colorful and storied backgrounds intertwined with the central Sierra's and eastern Fresno County, documents, writings and first hand knowledge is sparse, somewhat fragmented and often times totally lacking. One of the best references of information is "Reflections of Shaver Lake", by Gene Rose (Word Dancer Press, 1987), the major source for the following.

The Beginning

A native of England, a graduate of Oxford University and proper English gentleman, Tom Ockenden came to the United States in 1886 after apparently spending some time in New Zealand. Some time after his arrival Mr. Ockenden settled in the town of Academy, near the present day Highway 168 a few miles east of Clovis. There he founded and operated a general store. At that time Academy was a way station stop and cattle ranching area adjacent to Tollhouse Road, a wagon and stage coach road serving the foothill and mountain areas of north eastern Fresno County

No doubt seeking to expand his business opportunities he then opened a second store in Tollhouse. At that time Tollhouse was a bustling community of 250 persons with a livery, 3 hotels, and reportedly, and equal number of saloons a combination that was no doubt popular with local cattlemen. But mainly it was a popular over night stop for those traveling farther up into the Sierras via Tollhouse Road, a privately constructed Toll Road built in the 1870's to serve the needs of lumber operations in the Shaver Lake and Pine Ridge areas.

Opening his second store in Tollhouse placed Mr. Ockenden in direct competition with the areas first, and previously sole, innkeeper and general store proprietor, Mr. Charles Yancey. (It should be noted here that the former Yancey Lumber Company in Shaver Lake, next to the hardware store, was until the late 1990's operated by descendants of Mr. Yancey).

Always seeking to further expand his opportunities, nor afraid to take on ever increasing debt to do so, and probably facing stiff competition from Mr. Yancey, a year or so later, Tom Ockenden went into business with his older brother, William. William Ockenden had previously entered into the lumber business with John Humphreys (the founder of Humphrey's Station on today's "old" Tollhouse Road) and near the site where the road forked to the Bretz and Musick sawmills that Tom Ockenden established the original Ockenden Ranch.

Trying to locate the exact site of the original Ockenden Ranch can be best described as "difficult". Several sources make general reference to it. One on-line source even provides GPS coordinates. Unfortunately the references and coordinates are sufficiently vague as to leave its precise location elusive. Suffice to say however that it is either on in very close proximity to, today's Ockenden Ranch subdivision.

Mr. Ockenden immediately foresaw the recreational and leisure time opportunities presented by the area, the same attributes we appreciate today. And for the next 30+ years, from mid April to early November each year, the original Ockenden Ranch became a haven for those working in the area, a welcome stop for people venturing into the higher Sierras and a respite for families seeking an escape from the valley's summer heat in the area's cool air, sparkling creeks, lush meadows and wind rustled pines.

At its peak, the Ockenden Ranch had a large hotel, cabins, tents on platforms, a dance hall, a general store and a livery. In 1914 a United States Post Office was established further solidifying the business. It was also the only establishment on "the mountain" that served alcohol, no doubt popular with local loggers and mill workers who would otherwise have faced "dry" weekends as liquor was not allowed in local lumber camps. And ever the shrewd marketer, the menu at Ockenden Ranch always included a low cost meal of chicken or beef tailored to local lumbermen who typically continued their evenings festivities drinking beer and spirits. Consumption that was no doubt enhanced by Mr. Ockenden providing "gunny sacks" so lumbermen could take a few bottles back to camp with them.

Beyond the business of Ockenden Ranch, Mr. Ockenden also entered a cattle enterprise, established a slaughter house serving his lower elevations stores and kept a butcher shop on site to serve the needs of his visitors, guests and local businesses. He also "grub staked" the start up of a number of smaller sawmills saying he always got his money back.

During one (unspecified) winter in the early 1920's, when the Ockenden Ranch was closed, a fire engulfed and destroyed the hotel. For unknown reasons it was never rebuilt. As reported by Gene Rose in his book "Reflections of Shaver Lake", Mr. Ockenden, on being advised of the loss while at his winter home in Fresno, responded, "a lot of good whiskey had been needlessly destroyed".

From that point until his passing in Fresno on December 20, 1939 the remaining facilities continued to be open every year drawing travelers and valley residents as it had for decades before. Even after Mr. Ockenden's passing Mrs. Ockenden continued, for a few years, to operate what remained of the original Ockenden Ranch. Unfortunately, the exact date, even the year, of its final closing, like its precise location, remains shrouded in mystery to this day.

Ockenden Ranch Today

The Ockenden Ranch (OR) Subdivision as it exists today was originally created in the mid 1970's as a part of a larger planned development called Timberwine, the first "modern" mountain planned development in the central Sierras. The original Timberwine planning included the nearby Dog Wood Subdivision, the Bretz Mill Condominiums and the Apple Ridge/Meadow Ridge area. Included in those master plans were equestrian riding trails, a golf course and other features.

Phase I of today's OR was developed in the late 1970's with the very first lots, on Cold Springs Lane, becoming available in the late 1970's. While envisioned at the time as mainly summer cabins today's OR consists of summer cabins, second homes, rental and investment properties, weekend retreats and permanent residences.

OR currently (2005) encompasses 7 phases with 205 completed lots, 200 of which have been developed, and many features unique to the greater Shaver Lake area. Hiking trails, a sports and tennis court and a park, pond and children's play area. OR also features easy access to Highway 168, County water and sewer service, centralized garbage collection, an ongoing fire hazard reduction program and a strong home owners association maintaining a friendly family atmosphere and the property values within the subdivision with the lowest Home Owners Association dues in the greater Shaver Lake area. All of which are testaments to the vision, philosophy and history of Tom Ockenden and the original Ockenden Ranch.